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HomeFashionPeter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Overview – Everlasting Type

Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Overview – Everlasting Type

Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based mostly in Zurich. He does a number of educating of hand-sewn leather-based strategies, together with courses, movies and particular person coaching. He additionally sells leather-working instruments. (Whenever you’re a bespoke craftsman, it’s good to have a number of sources of earnings.)

It’s the luggage he makes himself I needed to spotlight, nevertheless, as I just lately had a briefcase made and it is among the loveliest items of leather-based work I’ve seen. 

I selected a basic flap-over briefcase fashion, particularly in a Barenia leather-based and uncooked brass {hardware}. 

Years in the past I purchased an exquisite Sac a Depeches briefcase from Hermes, however in a ‘shadow’ leather-based that doesn’t age in any respect actually, and palladium {hardware}. 

Whereas I’ve beloved utilizing that case, I all the time questioned whether or not I ought to have gotten the brighter and fewer conservative – however maybe extra stunning – Barenia. That is me lastly placing that to the check. 

I did need to cowl Peter’s workshop, however I wasn’t going to get to Zurich any time quickly. 

So I reached out to a few buddies and PS readers who dwell there – Paul Fournier and Andrew Borda. Paul turned out to have the time that week, so he popped alongside and acted as our roving reporter. That’s him on the left, beneath, with Peter. 

“Peter was an excellent host and his crew is gorgeous – fairly a gem of a discover I need to admit,” says Paul. 

“I gained’t thanks although, as a result of I then positioned an order I undoubtedly hadn’t deliberate!”

Paul questioned Peter, and found that though he’s been within the leather-based enterprise for 12 years, he didn’t begin at an early age, as most do. 

Slightly, Peter started in textiles, shopping for and promoting classic materials, then garments and equipment. Normally he would scout items in Paris after which deliver them again to Zurich to promote.

He ultimately had two outlets, one in every metropolis, specialising in classic. However then, throughout a visit to Paris he met an Hermès craftswoman, who made him fall in love with saddle stitching and leather-based work. 

Peter started educating himself at night time, in addition to asking the craftswoman to journey and educate him in Switzerland. This expertise, he says, is one factor that makes him eager to show others. 

Peter ultimately acquired some notoriety, that includes in Vogue France and dealing with Colette. 

For my bag I used to be eager for a basic briefcase, however Peter additionally satisfied me to attempt his specific twist lock (above), the place a claw-like piece of brass is twisted to safe the entrance, however slips by means of a formed gap within the brass plate to open. 

I’m glad I did, for the lock could be very satisfying to make use of – it slips by means of effortlessly when opening, however locks into place completely while you flip it. 

The mechanics of {hardware} are surprisingly essential, I discover. As you utilize it many occasions a day, you’re continually reminded of any lack in high quality or small misalignment. 

It’s one distinction I all the time discover between my finer umbrellas from the likes of Heurtault, and fewer cautious ones from Talarico

Extra prosaically, we just lately purchased a brand new oven at dwelling and regardless that it features properly in each different respect, the knobs to manage the hob are flimsy and scrape barely while you flip them. I might pay good cash to get these changed with one thing higher.

(After all, you may take this to an excessive and get aggravated at each such factor in life. However I believe the feelings of it are actually as much as you. A greater approach to take a look at it’s, when you might have the selection, why not have one thing higher – and reward the maker who made it that approach?)

The rationale I really like Barenia leather-based is the best way it ages. The intense tan regularly softens to a wealthy brown, and the nicks and scratches it simply acquires get labored into the floor, changing into fainter till they simply add to the feel. A little bit like a calf shoe.

I’ve seen this occur with a pockets of mine, with a belt and in addition with the envelope we designed with Equus a few years in the past. 

So I understand how this bag will look in a yr or two, and I don’t panic on the scratches it’s bought. The identical goes for the brass lock, which I needed uncoated, can go away to tarnish, after which will deliver again as much as a shine if and once I need. 

The best way these processes work just isn’t a simple factor to speak, and that’s why so many leather-based items are made as we speak with handled surfaces that can by no means change – however like plastic, haven’t any character both. It’s additionally the explanation so few of Peter’s purchasers are Swiss – all most of them need, based on him, is Dior and Chanel. 

I don’t suppose I’m exaggerating once I say it’s genuinely your function as shoppers to indicate this, speak about this, and unfold the phrase. Educated patrons are the one approach such crafts survive.  

The larger query for me in commissioning this bag was not the leather-based, however whether or not I might truly carry a briefcase nonetheless. 

If you happen to’re nonetheless within the sort of career the place you put on a darkish go well with to work day by day, a black or brown briefcase is a good choice. (For many, an attaché case is sadly too formal.)

Nevertheless, in case your office is changing into increasingly more casual, a tote bag like the PS bullskin one or a canvas briefcase, like the Filson we coated just lately, might be going to be extra applicable. 

And for me? It’s unlikely I’ve a working week just like any reader; however I even have a necessity and a need to put on sensible fits extra typically. 

Up to now I’ve discovered I like carrying the briefcase quite a bit – partly as a result of it’s one thing additional so as to add to an outfit when ties and handkerchiefs are a lot much less frequent. 

In reality, this is among the good issues about summer time too, I’ve present in latest weeks. Sun shades and hats are practical, essential equipment, but additionally add one thing ornamental to each day put on. 

I like carrying the bag with fits and smarter jackets, like the dark-brown Crispaire go well with from Dalcuore pictured. It’s excessive distinction, and actually provides one thing additional with out these equipment. 

However nonetheless, I carry different issues like my totes way more typically, and if I didn’t have already got each base coated, it wouldn’t have made sense. 

Peter’s work is okay and exact, and incorporates quite a few little craft touches – comparable to one-piece gussets on luggage like mine, with one gusset shorter than the opposite so it all the time stands up straight. 

I’d suggest him to anybody that appreciates hand-sewn leather-based. 

Most of his work is for girls, and many of the social feed is of the educating, however there are some pretty designs hidden in there. He does the whole lot from watch rolls to wallets, purses to journey luggage, and circumstances for vintage weapons or cigars. 

And naturally, if you will get to Zurich – as I couldn’t – it’s price seeing the workshop in particular person. Thanks Paul for doing that in my stead. 

Atelier Peter Nitz is at Spiegelgasse 29.

Baggage run from SFr4000 (£3300) to SFr8000. My bag was SFr6400. Unique leathers vary from SFr10,000 to 30,000. 

Programs and tutorials vary extensively in time and worth. Particulars on each at these hyperlinks. 



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